Tobago – a whole different country

Although effectively considered to be one nation since Britain made Tobago a ward of Trinidad back in 1899, the twin-island republic of Trinidad and Tobago feels like two separate and very different countries.

The Differences Between Trinidad and Tobago

We were struck by obvious differences as we drove to Castara, immediately after landing at ANR Robinson International Airport.  The four months we spent on Tobago only reinforced the feeling of a separate identity.  The vast majority of Tobagonians we met resented the fact that, despite the existence of the Tobago House of Assembly, all major decisions affecting their day-to-day lives are made in Trinidad.  Some even suggested to us that they would prefer to be ruled by the British!

The Geography

The islands of Trinidad and Tobago are separated by 20 miles of sea, but are, in reality, worlds apart.  Geographically, Trinidad is closer to Venezuela than it is to Tobago and was first settled by Amerindians from South America as early as 5000 BC.

Spanish Influences

In 1592, the first permanent Spanish settlers came to Trinidad and their influence is still reflected today in the Spanish road signs, the Spanish language being spoken on the streets of San Fernando, and the South American style of architecture.

Slavery

Trinidad undoubtedly feels South American, whereas Tobago has a much more African feel.  This is largely due to the fact that the British brought African slaves directly to Tobago when they established plantations there, whereas many of the slaves in Trinidad arrived there via other Caribbean islands, the property of French planters.  There were also many mixed European/African race immigrants into Trinidad.  These people were termed ‘Free Coloured’ by the Spanish and were allowed to own land if they brought slaves with them – though only half the acreage given to white immigrants!

Tobago’s Black African Heritage

The black African heritage of the majority of Tobagonians is evident today in the culture, the music, the dance and the traditions.  Whilst steel pan (percussion instruments made from disused oil drums) are prevalent in Trinidad, on Tobago you are much more likely to hear the beat of African drums, often accompanied by stilt-walking moko jumbies, a tradition which originated in West Africa, and limbo dancing.

This video was recorded during the regular Wednesday night ‘Dinner and Drums’ at the Boathouse Restaurant in Castara, Tobago.

Much of the food served in Tobago also has its roots in Africa.  We ate the same pelau, callaloo, and curry crab with dumpling in Tobago as we had tasted in The Gambia and Senegal.

Tobago’s Relaxed Vibe

Tobago feels much more relaxed and laid-back than Trinidad.

Less Crime in Tobago

There is far less crime on the smaller island.  One of the first things we noticed when we arrived in Tobago was that you could walk into a mini-mart, the small shops selling everything that is commonplace throughout the islands.  On Trinidad, due to the high rates of theft, these stores are protected with metal security grilles meaning that customers can’t get to the goods or to the server.  Instead, you have to ask for what you want through the mesh and it is passed to you through a small gap once you have sent the money the other way!  It was refreshing to actually be able to go in and choose what we wanted to buy.

This difference in the crime rate is another reason why Tobagonians would like to be considered separately to Trinidad.  As it stands at the moment, foreign governments (including the UK and the USA) issue travel advice to their citizens travelling to both Trinidad and Tobago, based on statistics which usually only apply to Trinidad.  The vast majority of murders, gang-related crimes, and drug offences take place in Trinidad and yet we are warned about these things as if they happen on Tobago with equal frequency.

Better Roads

I’ve written before about the atrocious state of the roads in Trinidad.  There are exceptions, but, generally, Tobagonian roads are in much better condition and are, therefore, much easier to drive on.  You can even afford to take your eyes off the road for a few seconds to admire the stunning scenery!!

A Slower Pace of Life

I don’t know if it’s just that the speed limit is lower (50 km/hr on all roads in Tobago, as opposed to 80 km/hr on highways and 55 km/hr on other roads in Trinidad), but the whole pace of life seems less frenetic in Tobago.  No-one is in a rush to get anywhere or do anything.

Liming (spending time chilling out and socialising with friends whilst enjoying good food and alcoholic beverages) is the pastime of choice for many Tobagonians.  It’s a very seductive way of life!

Tourism

One of the main differences between the two islands is the number of tourists they attract.  Trinidad has the oil industry which is key to its strong economy.  It is not reliant on tourism and so does very little to encourage visitors.  It also has very few of the archetypal white sandy palm-fringed beaches usually associated with a Caribbean island.  As a consequence, there are far fewer tourists on Trinidad than on Tobago.  This could be seen as an advantage; the beaches that do exist are less crowded, the tourist experience is more authentic, etc.  Perhaps.  But, as much as we enjoyed our time in Trinidad, Tobago, dependent as it is on tourism with the inevitable result that there are more foreigners, was much more to our liking.

Outside of the obvious tourist magnet which is Crown Point, there are countless picture-perfect beaches.  The Caribbean side of the island boasts beautiful bays with clear blue sea perfect for snorkelling.  Local people are invariably friendly and welcoming.  The unspoilt rainforest is accessible for hiking and bird-watching.

I feel that any trip to Trinidad and Tobago should be thought of as a visit to two countries, not one.  That way, you will get the best of both worlds.

READ MY COMPLETE TOBAGO TRAVEL GUIDE

Read more about Tobago and its birdlife

Try my Tobago colouring books and cookbook!

If you’re ready to go to Tobago, try Booking.com

Booking.com

Book a Tobago tour

Whenever we visit a new destination, we book a tour with a local guide.  There’s no better way to get under the skin of a place!  We use Viator when we want to uncover interesting things to do in a new place.  They’re easy to use and book with, and we’ve had some amazing experiences with them.

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