Best Beaches in Kerala: Kovalam, Varkala and a Different Side of India’s Coast

Kerala Beaches: More Than Just a Tropical Escape

When people think of Kerala, they often picture palm-fringed beaches, golden sand and lazy days by the Arabian Sea.

And yes, Kerala does have all of that.

But like so much in India, the reality is more layered than the postcard version. Some beaches are busy and developed, others are quieter and more atmospheric. Some feel like classic resorts, while others still retain a slightly offbeat, almost bohemian charm.

During our time in Kerala, we visited two of the most well-known beach destinations - Kovalam and Varkala.

And, as it turned out, both surprised us.

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Kovalam: The Beach We Almost Skipped

We very nearly didn’t go to Kovalam at all.

While planning the final days of our trip, we realised we didn’t have enough time to do everything we’d hoped. Something had to give, and Kovalam seemed the easiest place to drop.

Our guidebook described it as “Kerala’s most developed resort, with two beaches, neither particularly clean.”

We didn’t think we’d be missing much.

But plans changed.

After both becoming ill at our Workaway project, we left early, and Kovalam found its way back onto the itinerary.

Looking back now, I’m very glad it did.

First Impressions of Kovalam

Finding our hotel was an experience in itself.

Everything in Kovalam seems to have been built back from the beach, tightly packed together and connected by a maze of narrow alleyways. Large items are moved around by wheelbarrow, and when we arrived - slightly disoriented - someone from our hotel came to meet us and transport our bags the final stretch.

It sounds chaotic, but it works.

And once you get your bearings, you begin to see how much effort has gone into softening the concrete with flowers, plants and thoughtful design.

We stayed at the Hotel Thushura in Kovalam. Click here to book the same accommodation.

Lighthouse Beach and Life by the Sea

Then you reach the beach - and everything changes.

We were staying near Lighthouse Beach, the most popular stretch, especially with international visitors. And it was… beautiful.

A wide, crescent-shaped bay lined with palm trees, with the iconic lighthouse standing watch at one end.

Behind the beach runs a lively promenade filled with restaurants, cafés and shops. It’s easy, comfortable, and surprisingly relaxed.

Yes, it’s developed. But it’s also:

• clean

• well-managed

• and easy to enjoy

There are strong currents at times, but lifeguards are on duty, and swimming felt safe with a little awareness.

We fell into an easy rhythm here:

• early morning walks, watching fishermen land their catch

• long, lazy beach days

• fresh seafood dinners

• and sunsets that stopped us in our tracks

Even the small quirks - like beer being served wrapped in newspaper and poured into a coffee mug due to local licensing laws - became part of the charm.

We had planned to visit nearby Thiruvananthapuram, but in the end, we didn’t go anywhere at all.

Kovalam held us exactly where we were.

Varkala: Clifftop Views and a Different Atmosphere

From Kanyakumari, we travelled north along the coast to Varkala.

If Kovalam felt like a beach resort, Varkala felt like something else entirely.

Life on the Cliffs

Varkala’s most distinctive feature is its cliffs - around 15 metres high - running along the coastline.

At the top, a narrow path winds its way past cafés, restaurants, and small shops selling clothes, jewellery and handicrafts. There’s a relaxed, slightly bohemian feel to the place, and it doesn’t take long to understand why people linger here longer than planned.

It has something of a “hippy haven” atmosphere, but in a gentle, unpretentious way.

Food, Culture and a Different Influence

One of the things that stood out to us was the presence of a Tibetan community, with several restaurants and shops run by Tibetan families.

We found ourselves returning more than once to a small place serving simple, delicious food - fresh flatbreads, hummus, and warming, home-style dishes.

It was an unexpected layer to the experience.

The Beach Below

The beach itself sits below the cliffs, reached by a series of steep stone steps.

They’re not always in perfect condition, and you need to take a bit of care, but the effort is worth it.

The beach is wide, sandy and less crowded than Kovalam, partly because of that slightly awkward access. You’re also less likely to be approached by sellers, which makes it feel more relaxed.

The sea here can be strong, so caution is needed, but for a day or two of slowing down, it’s a lovely place to be.

A Glimpse of the Backwaters

While we were in Varkala, we took a trip to Ponnumthuruthu Island, also known as Golden Island.

It was our first real introduction to Kerala’s backwaters.

A short journey took us to a quiet lake, where we transferred to a small, manually guided boat. Gliding silently across the water, surrounded by birdlife and greenery, it felt like stepping into a completely different world.

On the island, we visited a temple dedicated to Shiva and Parvati and received several enthusiastic blessings, some more persistent than others, especially the turmeric!

It was peaceful, slightly surreal, and a lovely contrast to the coast.

Weather and the End of the Season

We visited Varkala towards the end of the peak season, and the weather reflected that.

There were heavy downpours and dramatic thunderstorms, but they were short-lived, often clearing just as quickly as they arrived.

In between, there was still plenty of sunshine.

And, if anything, the shifting skies made the place feel even more atmospheric.

Final Thoughts: Which Beach is Better?

So, which is better, Kovalam or Varkala?

Honestly, they offer completely different experiences.

• Kovalam is easier, more polished, and perfect if you want a classic beach break with everything close at hand

• Varkala is more atmospheric, a little less predictable, and feels more distinctive

We enjoyed both for different reasons.

And that’s probably the best way to think about Kerala’s beaches as a whole - they’re not all the same.

A Note on Other Kerala Beaches

While Kovalam and Varkala are the most popular, Kerala has many other beaches worth considering if you have more time.

Places like:

• Marari Beach (near Alleppey)

• Bekal (further north, with its coastal fort)

• Cherai Beach (closer to Kochi)

offer quieter alternatives with fewer crowds.

Final Reflection

Looking back, our time on the Kerala coast wasn’t just about beaches.

It was about:

• slowing down after weeks of travel

• recovering (in more ways than one)

• and allowing ourselves to simply be for a while

Sometimes, that’s exactly what you need at the end of a long journey.

Watch this video for more about Kerala's beaches

Please ignore the Christmas music! 😂

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