Exploring the Backwaters of Kerala: Kollam, Alleppey and Life Beyond the Houseboats

Do You Need a Houseboat to Experience the Kerala Backwaters?

When most people think of the backwaters of Kerala, they picture luxury houseboats drifting slowly through palm-lined canals.

We did too.

But when we started planning our trip, we quickly realised that a houseboat stay was well out of our budget. Prices for an overnight experience can run into hundreds of pounds - and much more for higher-end boats.

Still, we didn’t want to miss the backwaters altogether.

So instead, we found another way to experience them - one that turned out to be just as rewarding, and perhaps even more memorable.

To jump to a particular section of this article, please use these links:

What Are the Kerala Backwaters?

The Kerala backwaters are a vast network of lagoons, lakes, rivers and canals that stretch along the Arabian Sea coast.

This unique ecosystem supports an entire way of life. People live, work and travel on the water - fishing, farming, transporting goods, and going about their daily routines much as they have done for generations.

While Alleppey (Alappuzha) is the most famous gateway to the backwaters, there are quieter areas - like Kollam - that offer a more peaceful and less commercialised experience.

We visited both after our stay in Kochi, Kerala's vibrant capital city.

Staying in Kollam: A Quieter Side of the Backwaters

We hadn’t originally planned to spend much time in Kollam. Our main reason for including it in our itinerary was to take the ferry from there to Alleppey - a journey often described as one of the most scenic in Kerala.

Unfortunately, we missed the last boat of the season by just a couple of days. The service wasn’t due to resume until November.

We were offered the alternative: an eight-hour journey by private houseboat for 27,000 rupees (around £335).

We politely declined.

Instead, we opted for the local bus at a cost of just 70 rupees each.

Life on Ashtamudi Lake

We stayed a little outside Kollam, at Ashtamudi Lake, in a peaceful garden setting surrounded by palm trees.

It was the kind of place where hammocks sway gently in the shade and the days seem to stretch out just a little longer than usual.

The accommodation itself was comfortable and well-kept, but the food… less so. In fact, it was probably the worst meal we had in several months in India—something our host blamed, unapologetically, on it being the end of the season.

Even so, the setting more than made up for it.

We stayed at Ashtamudi Villas. Click here to book the same accommodation.

A Backwaters Experience on Munroe Island

One of the highlights of our time in Kollam was a trip to Munroe Island.

Getting there was an adventure in itself - a 15-kilometre tuk-tuk ride, complete with a river crossing by ferry, driven at what felt like Formula 1 speeds. Somehow, we made it in one piece.

From there, we boarded a small, punt-powered canoe.

Our guide for the day, Ooni, spoke excellent English and had a deep knowledge of life in the backwaters. As we drifted along, he brought the landscape to life in a way no guidebook ever could.

What You See on the Backwaters

This is where the backwaters really begin to reveal themselves.

We started on the wider Kalada River, sharing the water with vast houseboats that seemed enormous from our low vantage point.

Soon, we turned into narrower canals - some natural, others man-made - where life unfolded quietly around us.

We saw:

• fishermen casting their nets

• families washing clothes and cattle at the water’s edge

• children playing in the shallows

• farmers using nutrient-rich mud from the lake bed to fertilise coconut trees

Birdlife was everywhere - cormorants, egrets, kingfishers, and kites moving effortlessly through the air above us.

At one point, we passed a Hindu temple and heard singing drifting across the water. We assumed it was recorded, but Ooni explained that it was a woman singing live, all day long - a role she had trained for since childhood.

It was one of those moments that stay with you.

Conversations Along the Way

After a while, we stopped for chai and a snack and had time to talk.

Ooni told us he had a degree in politics but had chosen to stay close to home and work as a guide. He spoke about family life, arranged marriages, and the changing role of women in Kerala, explaining how more women are now able to earn their own income and gain independence.

It was a reminder that travel isn’t just about what you see - it’s about the conversations you have along the way.

A Working Landscape

Back on the water, we passed fish sellers calling out to customers along the banks, their voices echoing across the canals.

We also saw tiger prawn farms, protected by vivid blue netting. Ooni explained that the prawns farmed here are exported to Europe - an unexpected connection between this quiet corner of Kerala and the wider world.

It was a fascinating day - and one I would highly recommend.

Our Only Time on a Houseboat

Ironically, after deciding not to splurge on a houseboat, we still ended up having a brief experience of one.

On the morning we left Kollam, a houseboat arrived at our lakeside accommodation to drop off guests. The captain offered us a lift across the lake to the bus station.

We didn’t hesitate.

The journey lasted just 15 minutes—but it was enough to give us a glimpse of what a houseboat experience might be like.

And honestly? It was just enough.

Alleppey: The Heart of the Backwaters

Our final stop in Kerala was Alleppey - often referred to as the “Venice of the East”.

Or at least, that’s what I thought I had booked.

As it turned out, our accommodation was actually around 20 kilometres outside the town - a discovery we only made on arrival, along with the realisation that getting there was going to cost us more than expected.

A Peaceful Place to End the Journey

Once we arrived, though, all was forgiven.

Our homestay sat right on the edge of the water, with a shaded cabana where we could sit and watch life unfold - boats passing by, fishermen at work, birds skimming the surface of the lake.

After months of travelling, it felt like the perfect place to pause and reflect.

Our hosts were warm and welcoming, and the food, thankfully, was excellent, even if the portions were far larger than we could manage.

We stayed at Lovedale Homestay. Click here to book the same accommodation we used.

A Festival by Chance

On our first evening, our hosts told us about a local temple festival.

We went along, not quite knowing what to expect.

What we found was a vibrant procession of elephants, dancers and drummers - colour, noise and energy filling the night air.

It was completely unexpected - and completely unforgettable.

Exploring the Backwaters from Alleppey

We took another boat trip while we were in Alleppey, this time in a much smaller vessel - so low in the water that we had to recline on the floor.

Getting in and out was… interesting, especially with Mark having a bad back to contend with.

But once we were moving, it was worth it.

Alleppey is busier than Kollam, with hundreds of houseboats navigating the wider waterways. But beyond those, the narrower canals still offer glimpses of everyday life - villages, paddy fields, and people going about their routines.

At one point, our guide Santosh took us to his home, where we met his wife and shared a meal.

Moments like that are hard to plan - and impossible to forget.

Final Thoughts: Is a Houseboat Worth It?

We thoroughly enjoyed our time in the backwaters of Kerala - and we did it without a traditional houseboat stay.

Would a houseboat be a wonderful experience? Probably.

But is it essential?

Not at all.

Some of our most memorable moments came from:

• small boat trips

• local guides

• unexpected conversations

• and simply watching life unfold on the water

Sometimes, the quieter, simpler experiences are the ones that stay with you the longest.

Watch this video for more views of the Kerala backwaters

If you’re travelling soon, please use these links!

Are you travelling soon? Use these links when making your bookings. These are the companies we use. It won’t cost you any extra, but we will earn a few pennies to help keep Happy Days Travel Blog going. Thank you!!

• Make sure you take out travel insurance. If you are a digital nomad or long-term traveller, try the specialist provider SafetyWing. (Never leave home without protecting yourself, your trip and your belongings!)

• Book your flight with Skyscanner

• Book your accommodation with Booking.com

• Book a tour with Tour Radar

• Book city tours and activities with Viator or Get Your Guide

• Check out our Resource Page for more companies we recommend.

Disclosure:This post contains affiliate links. If you click through for more information, or to make a purchase, it may result in a small commission coming my way. Please note that there is no extra cost to you associated with this. Thank you so much for supporting my site.